Draping

Draping 


Today in lesson we got shown how to drape on a Mannequin i thought that it was one of the easier patten drafting to do well that is what i thought other people might have different opinion to what they might find easier. for me i was making a corset but you can do a lot of things with draping


1. make sure that you have calico ,fabric scissors and pins ( lots of them) when i first started to cut the calico in to rectangular strips and pined them on to my mannequin but there the calico meet in the middle make sure that you pin both pieces of fabric together but not to the mannequin.make sure that you do this for half of it because if it is symmetrical you don't really need to do it for all the mannequin but if it not you will have to do all of the mannequin.

2. After you have done this i started to draw on my pattern with Taylor chalk . Once i was happy with what the deign looked like i used my fabric scissors and cut out the spear fabric.

3. After i did the same to the bottom i drew my shape i wanted on to the calico and then cut it out using my fabric scissors but just make sure that you done cut the sleeve that goes round the mannequin.

4. Once you have gotten the shape of the corset you can do anything to it what every design you want i choose to put little straps on to my corset and a trim around the top of the corset. 

5. for the back of my corset i did a little low curve and then i just added the trim on the top and pinned the strap in to place. 

6. Once you are done carefully remove one piece at a time and place them down on to a piece of grid paper and draw around the calico to make your patter piece make sure you make out on to the paper what is on the fold and what is on the biest  and how many pieces yo need cutting out and where the pieces of the corset belongs. That is how you do draping. 

1950's glamours swim suits

                                                                       1. one piece
                                                                          cotton
                                                                        1955-60

extravert ruffles decorate this bathing  suit. The plunging sweetheart neckline draws attention to the cleavage while the frilled peplum provides coverage for the upper thighs. the elaborate floral design and indulgent use of fabric is typical of the late 1950's 

                                                                      


                                                                  2. Blue lake
                                                                      one piece
                                                                      Bir-nylon
                                                                     1960-1969

The cut out sides and high hip line of this revealing bathing suit display the free attitudes towards the body in the late 60s.Which the development of stretchy fabrics zips and internal wires were no longer necessary to hold the suits in to place. Bri-nylon help its , shape when wet which made it ideal for swimwear

3.Du cross 

one piece 

sliver lame 

1965-1969 

silver lame fabric gives this bathing suit a futuristic look. the lower section of this one piece is softer and less structured than bathing suits of the previous decade. the 1960's demonstrated a move towards freedom and comfort which saw the decline of boning and internal corsetry 

4.Jantzen Capri 

one - piece 

wool, latex 

1948-1951

For jantzen, latex was the 'miracle yarn' latex allows this one piece to stretch in all direction and gives the suits its figure fitting shape. the neck line of this one piece bathing suits is a precursor to the plunging necklines of the 1950's it has detachable straps that transformed it into a strapless suit that was ideal for training.

5.martin white 

one piece 

cotton

1947-1950 

The cut way section of this one piece draws the eye to the cinched in the waist . The fashionable hourglass silhouette is achieved by tightly gathered fabric at the back of this bathing suit,a technique knowing as shirring. the floral pattern displays the more elaborately decorated fabrics that became popular towards the end of the 1940s 

6.Utility clothing scheme 

two-piece 

wool 

1941-1950 

the rough edging at the top of these high wasted briefs suggest it was originally a one piece bathing suit.Mending and making do was very common during the 1940's due to the lack of resources in world war 2. The British government introduced the utility clothing scheme in 1941 to encourage designers to make fashionable and   affordable clothing using less fabric,accessories and expensive materials.

7. Jantzen Ceylon 

one piece 

latex or Lycra blend 

1959-1960

Rigid corsetry and boning allowed bathing suits to stay in place without the use of straps. Gathering at the front of this strapless suit draws in the waist and creates a structured silhouette.cleavage is accentuated by the plunging neckline,which was popular feature  

Yves saint laurent

Yves saint Laurent

homage to pop art autumn -winter 1966 haute couture collection
This is a straight short black dress made out of wool shoulder straps and red lip made out of wool on the neckline of the dress. I think that this piece  that YSL has done I just think it is beautiful the contrast of colours just look amazing together.

Evening gown.  autumn-winter 1968 haute couture collection. 

loose-fitting gown of black chiffon with crown of black ostrich feathers worn around the hips.

Evening ensemble. autumn-winter 1991 haute couture collection.

organza bodice embroidered  with twisted strips of golden beads evoking a skit pattern loose fitting white silk satin skirt with gold lame polka dots and strips of Chantilly lace applique along the hem. Embroidery by lesage  

First tuxedo . autumn -winter 1966 haute couture collection 

jacket and trousers of black barathea weave with black silk satin cord trim and cuff white cotton shirt whit flat collar and ruffled musketeer cuffs  

Cocktail dress. homage to pop art . autumn- winter 1966 haute couture collection 

straight dress of green wool jersey with heart shaped pink wool jersey applique and uneven stip of blue wool jersey along the hem

Evening gown . inspired by Henei Matisse's cut outs autumn -winter  1980 haute couture collection 

black silk velvet bodice ,loose fitting skirt of black moire faille with multicolored leaf shaped applique of satin,faille,velvet;blue silk satin draped belt with triple knot on the front. patchwork by Brossin Mere 

Evening Gown. homage to Georges Braque. spring -summer 1988 haute couture collection. long draped gown of royal blue crepe with gazar doves, embroidered with white sequins and black trim on each shoulder.

Evening Gown. Autumn-Winter 1988 haute couture collection. gown with brown silk chiffon bodice skirts composed of navy silk chiffon over two layers of black chiffon, light brown draped silk chiffon belt black silk chiffon veil .